Good Morning Please help- I have an unmonitored security system and recently the yellow trouble light is on- the alarm still gets set and works but unsure what the trouble light means and get it off. I could find no info in the manual. Thanks chances are this is a DSC power series panel used by ADT press *2, see which LED's light up- that will tell you what the trouble condition is (the LED's for zones will light, or if its an LCD display something will show up there the most common is a low panel battery. these should be need replaced every 3 - 5 years. has it went into alarm recently? it cold be a fail to communicate also. report back Hi thanks for the quick reply- I tried the *2 and zone 1 lit up!?! Now what? As far as the battery I didn't think there was one I appreciate your advice- I am at a loss Kathy ok- 1 on, press 1 - then see which light comes on - so, *2 , ( LED for zone 1 on ) press 1 now, another or more than 1 will light if its another 1, or doesnt appear to do anything, its a LOW panel battery- yes, there is a rechargable battery in a metal box somewhere in the house. basement, or closet its either a 12 volt, 4 amp (standard) or a 12 volt, 7 or 8 amp battery. if after pressing the 1 button, its NOT zone 1 lighting up- then that zone/s that do light up mean something else- iam not going to list them all, as there are 8 of them respond back with your findings I tried pressing *2 1 and only 1 stayed on . I then entered my code and tried it again and no zone light up and the ready light isn't even on now?!?!? You have a low battery. Replace the battery. The battery is in the metal box with the motherboard. You need a 12V 4 to 7aH battery. You don't have to power down. the connectors are just slip on connectors. thanks so much - I will try that- I really appreciate all the help this forum has provided. I called ADT and they wouldn't tell me anything because I wasn't monitored- you guys are the best. Merry Christmas I am having a similar problem. Our is showing a failure to communicate, which makes sense since we cancelled monitoring, but it also shows a problem with zone 4...our glassbreak. I have no idea get the cover off the glassbreak. I thought I might need to change the battery. But then, isn't it hardwired? Perhaps I need to replace the main battery? Thanks in advance! You are misreading the trouble display. Trouble 4 is loss of telephone line, trouble 7 is failure to communicate. The only way to correct this is to either restore telephone communications or to access programming and disable the communicator and telephone line monitor function. If this is an ADT installed system, you can find the installer code by websearching with the phrase: ADT installer code Once you have this, you can use the steps outlined in the sticky titled Alarm Forum FAQ (Please read before posting) in the section on DSC hardware.
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I would like to to get a 105 ft 5 ft high solid board fence installed in my back yard with 2 four ft gates. One company is offering Western red cedar fencing boards harvested from the Pacific Northwest for $2,000.00, Lowes is offering pressure treated pine Wood Privacy for $1,617.00 or Wood Shadowbox to match my neighbor's: $2,194.00. Home Depot is charging $2,300 for the same Western Red Cedar with the same dimensions. Lastly, another company is telling me that composite is the new thing as the maintenance is really nothing and looks and feels like real wood, however the cost is well over $3,000.00 for the material. My question is what wood is better Red Cedar or Pressure Treated Pine and is Wood fencing better then Composite? All suggestions and responses welcome Thank you for your time. Tim Go to your nearest home center and lift a 16 ft long 5/4 treated decking board. Do the same with a composite decking board. You will find that the composite is much heavier and bends far more than the wood. I think composite fencing will be heavier and require more structural support than wood. The fencing pros will be along shortly. I can't comment on the structure but I hate the maintenance required of wood outside and I would be at least looking into whether the composite was feasible. I'd also be will to pay more for it, given that I won't be out there every year or two cleaning and staining it. Not always but usually the cost change between 100 and 200 is based on the labor or the type of installation the contractor has in mind. Not one or the other is wrong for going up or down in their number. Going up more than 500 or so would have something to do with the materials. In your case that is obvious because it is already stated that there is difference between wood and the types of wood and composite. Composite wood cost more in installation as well as materials. The installation screws are more expensive than nails or just regular vinyl coated screws that one or another contractor would use. The materials cost more as well. But sometimes the materials although they cost more does not mean that they are worth more... to you , me or anyone else. Composite fencing in my experience sags. It can be melted by the sun and it can fade drastically. I believe that wood has the same characteristics, but wood is easier to know what will happen based on its history. Composite materials have their place, but surely decking may be a better place than fencing. But then again, some people are going for that look that a wood fence just can not give. The colors that composite fences give is something that is very desirable... the clear boards, the new fresh look and the smooth appearance is very nice the day of the installation. My absolute best advice would be to ask for referrals of more than 3 different installations of this material in your general area. Knock on those doors and speak directly to the people that had those fencing styles installed.. You would be amazed how informative you can find people would be when they are either pleased or displeased with the installation of any certain materials. And they may raise a question or a red flag for you to help you along in deciding. It should not be the difference in price that sways your deciding vote. It should be the reputation of the contractor, the materials he is trying to sell you and how you feel about what is next. If you trust it, go with it. If not do some more investigation before making that leap. Rules of thumb.. Keep in mind, thickness of picket boards. Anything less than 1/2 thick is questionable. And 1/2 inch thick is not on my installation list of products. Bigger box stores love that number... But that is based on giving you a wider board than contractor grade. Those stores usually sell a smaller back rail, with a much wider picket and a much thinner picket. And more times than not they use nails that are smaller than some pins my mom used for sewing. Be careful and ask a lot of questions when buying a new product. Good luck in your choice Gregs Fence~
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I have a Weil Mclain CGa boiler that is only a couple of years old. I drained the boiler and shut it down over the summer, I just tried starting it up yesterday and I am having issues. First I flushed the whole system out and filled with new water. Second I lit the standing pilot without any issue. Then I turned power on to the boiler and adjusted the thermostat to a high enough temperature to kick the boiler on. Initially it turned on as expected, the circulator started pumping, the automatic vent damper opened up and the main burners kicked on. The system fired for a couple of minutes and then stopped. I checked the temperature gauge and the water reached about 120 degrees. The aquastat is set to 180 degrees. I felt the pipes coming out of the boiler and they were not warm. The circulator kept pumping. The only way I could get the system to fire again is by shutting it down by adjusting the thermostat lower, and letting it sit for about an hour. Once I adjusted the thermostat higher again the boiler would fire for a couple minutes and shut off again. I cannot get the boiler to fire long enough to heat the water to a hot enough temperature. Any ideas? Steve, before we get on to the firing problem, can I ask why you drained it when you shut it down? Not only is that not necessary, and makes all that extra work for you in the fall time, it is actually a bad thing. Here's why... when you run water in a closed heating system, all of the oxygen is driven out of the water and vented to the atmosphere. Water without oxygen will not rust or corrode anything. By draining the system and allowing all that air that is now in there is allowing rust and corrosion to form. Bottom line, just shut it off. Do not drain it. more later... There are a number of things that can cause this. In line with the gas valve are some safety switches. There are a 'SPILL SWITCH', a 'ROLLOUT SWITCH', and the switch inside the vent damper to prove it is open. You may also have a LWCO (Low Water Cut Off) switch installed. Any one of these tripping indicates that there is a problem... There could be rust and junk on top of the burners causing poor combustion and soot and rust in the flue passes causing poor draft which would trip the flame 'rollout'. There could be a (now dead) family of squirrels in your chimney that would cause flue gas to escape around the atmospheric vent on the flue pipe and trip the 'spill switch'. Your vent damper might be malfunctioning. If you have the optional LWCO, it could be sensing (either actually, or falsely) a low water condition. What is your skill level? Do you feel confident?
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Have a 3 month old Maytag Legacy Series top load washer that seemed awful loud in general when new, but is now really bad, especially when spinning the wash water out, headed to the rinse cycle. Very loud banging, clanking noise. The following rinse cycles are not quite as bad. But it is just generally noisy while washing. Maytag is sending someone out, but any idea what this could be? They asked if I thought it was level, but I watched the delivery guy level it, and it makes a much louder noise than just being unlevel. I'm afraid to wash any more clothes until then. Do washers have gears in them any more? It's been a long time since I've bought one, and was wondering if that might be it. Since I'd imagine this should not cost you a cent, at least come back and let us know what is causing it. Whirlpool just bought out Maytag I guess. On the radio I think they said they are going to start putting Whirlpool parts in Maytag chasis, if I got the story right. The Legacy series is still one of the Maytag designs including Norge and Amana. Those machines are now replaced by the Maytag Centennial which is a Whirlpool direct drive machine with a Maytag logo on it Make sure there are not any shipping pins still in the machine that are supposed to hold the tub still during shipment. That causes the machine to make all kinds of noises. Funny you should mention the shipping pins; the guy at HD also mentioned that, said he wondered if the delivery guy took them out when he installed it. That mght well be it. Hopefully, if that's the case, it hasn't done any damage to it by operating it for the past 3 months with them in it. They are coming this Thurs. to check it out. I have heard lots of complaints about these being noisy. Another thing that I heard of is the base of the machine that everything sits on is too weak generating all kinds of problems. UPDATE: Well, first repairman came, and said it needed a new transmission, and ordered it, and the next week a different guy came out, and told me the other guy did not work with them anymore, and had moved away. He explained to me that he would go ahead and replace the transmission since it was there, but that he could tell me with 99% certainty it wouldn't help. And that those washers generally just made those noises anyway. Sure enough, he replaced it, which only took a few minutes, and it made the same noise. He said that washers did not have belts anymore, and had direct drives, I think that is what he called it, which made them not as quiet as a belt driven washer. And that there had been quite a few complaints about that series of Maytag washer before. Believe me, had I known that, I wouldn't have gotten one. Should have done a little research first or returned it to HD before my 30 days were up for a different kind. The legacy series Maytags were still belt driven. The new Centennial series are the Whirlpool direct drive design. The direct drive design is unique to Whirlpool and they are no louder than the belt drive units. The legacy series Maytags are fairly noisy from what I have seen of them. So then, my washer has a belt? And it is not a direct drive? Was this guy just blowing smoke? And trying to shut me up? What is the model number of your washer? It is MTW5570TQ It is a Legacy Series washer??? It is a Whirlpool direct drive machine... I thought they didn't introduce the Whirlpool direct drive design until the Centennial series washer. Okay, well knowing it is a Whirlpool direct drive unit changes things a little. One thing that you should double check is that the pins are removed that holds the tub in place during shipment. You should be able to grab the tub and freely move it around without too much noise. If you have the installation instructions for your washer it should show you the location of the pins. If they didn't get removed, it will make the machine make all kinds of noises, especially during spin. There is a yellow strap at the back of the machine at the bottom that should have been removed along with the pins. It is normal to hear a clunk when the machine stops draining just before starting the spin cycle. Does the tub stay centered in the machine or does it tend to tilt to one side? Yep, it is a Legacy series, (see my first post ) I mentioned the pins and he assured me they were taken out. The tub stays centered, but it moves freely all around by hand. I guess I'm just doomed to a noisy washer. You'd think the newer models of things like that would be quieter than ever over the older models. My 13 year old White Westinghouse washer that I just gave away when we moved, was MUCH quieter than this one. In fact, very quiet. Originally Posted by gdoug The legacy series Maytags were still belt driven. The new Centennial series are the Whirlpool direct drive design. 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Hello, Recently, the trouble light has been lit on our keypads for our system with a DSC PC5010 panel. After interrogating the keypad using the manual, the code error is #4, which apparently means the panel is not communicating properly. Called alarm company who said the panel does not appear to be communicating with the monitoring service. Shouldn't the service have called me to alert me to a problem? Anyway, I am looking for potential solutions before having an expensive service call. House phones working OK. Light came on apparently while we were out of town. Also, how do I set a delay when activating the stay alarm monitoring mode? This would be especially useful so the alarm could be on at night when everyone has not yet made it home yet, instead of having the alarm go off instantaneously and the alarm company responding every time when it is accidentally activated. Thank you in advance. Unless you are subscribing to a supervised monitoring service (which generally costs a good bit more than a standard monitoring contract) the assumption is that the subscriber will check communication periodically by testing their system. Most residential systems only send an auto test once a month to once a week, at best, and that's generally logged on a typical residential account, but that's about it. On a DSC panel, the communication trouble will not clear until the panel successfully communicates with the central station. Try putting the system on test with the monitoring center, and trip it into alarm a couple of times. If it still doesn't connect, then you may have phone line issues specific to the alarm. I tried your suggestions, and the trouble light cleared. The monitoring service did receive the alarm notifications during the test period. Thank you for your help. Just saved me $85! If you don't mind, do you have suggestions for setting a delay time for the alarm when in stay mode? Thanks again. The delay always works on the entry/exit doors in stay mode, unless you specifically use the *9 command to remove the delay from the doors. All stay does is to auto-bypass the interior zones (assuming that they are set as interior stay/away zones). Thanks. I have noticed the delay does work on some doors in the stay mode, but not others. Someone must have used the *9 for the doors where there is no delay? Is there a way to reactivate the delay for these other (non primary) doors if needed? Thanks again for your help. No, I don't think you are understanding the operating modes, you might want to give your user manual a careful read. Only a couple of doors (normally those nearest the keypad(s)) have the delay, all other doors are normally set as instant zones. This is set based on both what openings are physically wired to others, and what the zone is programmed to be. If the doors in question are alone on their zones, then yes, they can be reprogrammed as delay zones. More likely is that these non-delay doors are part of a zone with 1 or more windows. You can turn _off_ the delay on a delay zone with a keypad command. To make a non-delay zone have a delay is a _lot_ more complicated. Thank you again. I think I am beginning to understand. I will test all the doors just so I am aware which are instant and which are delay and make note of this on the zone chart so I'll be sure to use the right door when coming home late at night.
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At my workplace we have several of the old style magnetic ballasts that need replacing for the flourescent fixtures with T12 lamps. I guess I'll be wanting to replace them with electronic ballasts since the old style magnetic is not generally available anymore. I see that there are some apparently appropriate replacement electronic ballasts available with the same amount and same color of wires coming out of them as my old magnetic ballasts, and that's what I would want to get so as not to get confused when wiring in the replacements. The replacement ballasts are described as rapid start type and are residential grade and require non-shunted sockets. However, my workplace is not residential, so of course that to me seems like the ones I'm considering are probably not appropriate? I realize ideally I'd want to get rid of the T12 fixtures altogether (or retrofit for other than T12), and probably will eventually, but for now I just wanna get replacement T12 ballasts. Specifically, I'm considering replacing Advance HM-140-1-TP with Advance RELB-1S40-SC and replacing Advance RQM 2S40-3-TP with Advance RELB-2S40-N. Any comments/advice appreciated. Thanks Also, we have some 2' T8 fixtures that need ballast too. The old ballast in those is the Advance REL 4P32-SC and I'm considering replacing with what is available, that being the Advance IOP-4P32-SC, but those particular replacement bulbs are supposedly electronic high efficiency but the T8 bulbs we use in these T8 fixtures are not the high efficiency type, so not sure about that either. comments? I can't really give you exact numbers for the ballasts so I will just be generic. Most (if not all) T12 fixture ballasts will run 2 lamps per ballast. If your fixture is a 4 lamp fixture, you can change them out with and install 1 - 4 lamp, T8 ballasts. You would wire them just like the wiring diagram on the ballast. Each socket are not shunted, and have two wires coming from each of them. All you need to do is wire nut each pair from the socket together, along with the appropriate wire coming off the ballast. To retrofit your 8' T12 fixtures, you can buy a retrofit kit that will change a 2 lamp T12 fixture to a 4 lamp T8 fixture. All you replace is the guts. Check your local electrical supply house or Google online T12 retrofit kit I have easily have done over 1000 of these type of retrofits, on a variety of light fixtures, but was always supplied the parts to do the change out. I never had to buy anything. Be sure to check with your local power company. Many times there are rebates for doing these type of retrofits in a company that will shorten the payback in energy savings to only a few years. They also might be able to help in choosing the best equipment for your application. I hope this helps! T Ironhand, Thanks for your helpful reply. I think we're not quite ready to do much retrofitting of our T12 fixtures to T8 at this point, although we may do a few to see how it works out. Our T12 fixtures (all 4') happen to be the type that run 3 lamps, and in each fixture there's two separate ballasts, one for 1 lamp, and one for 2 lamps. My confusion/uncertainty at this point, in regard to replacing the T12 ballasts with newer T12 ballasts, is the fact that I have the old magnetic type ballasts and the newer ones are all electronic, and some of which are rapid start and some of which are instant start. The rapid start seem to definitely have the same wiring, although for some reason they say best for residential. Sure best for residential Because the commercial ones cost more. I don't think they make an electronic ballast for three F-48 T-12 lamps. Very easy to install a three lamp ballast. You can convert to T-8 tubes just by changing the tubes and the ballast. Couldn't be much easier. The sockets will work just fine. With the new type electronic ballasts.... rapid start or instant start isn't a concern. The old style ballast worked by preheating the filament in the tube. With the new ballasts.....the pins at the socket ends get combined. Instead of preheating an element.....they blast a high voltage thru the tube to strike the arc. I have used these in commercial spaces (120 volt only) with normal T12 lamps and they work just fine. GE 4 ft. 2-Lamp 120-Volt T12 Electronic Replacement Ballast-GE240RS120R-DIY at The Home Depot IMO - I would pull out the T12 ballast as they fail, and replace with 3 lamp, T8 ballasts, and T8 lamps. (be sure to get the same color, 3500k = warm white 4100k = cool white) That way the cost will be spread out over time. It would also cost less than 2 replacement ballasts I posted ($30 total for two T12 compaired to one T8 3 lamp = $20) Lastly you will be very happy with the increased light output of the T8's and the energy savings. PJmax, Actually our 3-lamp T12 fixtures use F40 lamps, not F48 (although I am unclear about the difference. I just know the lamps say F40 on them). And I wasn't necessarily looking for a single T12 electronic ballast that would work for three lamps, I had been just considering replacing the two separate magnetic ballasts in each fixture with two separate T-12 electronic ones. But now I think a better idea would be to simply convert the two old T12 ballasts to a single three-lamp T8 electronic ballast instead, as you mentioned, if it's not complicated. It's not complicated at all. Just follow the diagram on the ballast. As I mentioned, if there is two wires coming from a socket, just splice them together along with the proper ballast wire. If you have any questions, you know where to find us. I think a better idea would be to simply convert the two old T12 ballasts to a single three-lamp T8 electronic ballast instead, as you mentioned, if it's not complicated. That depends. The 3-lamp, 2-ballast fixtures were designed to be energy saving fixtures. When they were installed to use that design feature, there would be a pair of wall switches for each fixture of group of fixtures. One of the switches - it should be the one closer to the door frame - controls the single-tube ballast(s) and the other switch controls the two-tube ballast(s). That way, the occupants could choose to use no light, 1/3 of the light, 2/3 of the light or all of the light, depending on how much natural light was coming at the time. If your fixtures are wired this way, it will save you both energy and money to replace the existing ballasts with the corresponding electronic ones. If not, the payback on changing them to work this way is probably a few decades in the future. Nashkat, Our 3-lamp, 2 ballast fixtures are apparently not wired to work as as you described. The switch(s) for these fixtures turns the 3 lamps in each fixture all on, or all off, no choice to use 1/3 or 2/3. Doing a little shopping, I came up with this example Electronic Ballast - Ballasts - Lighting - Grainger Industrial Supply as perhaps a feasible choice? That's assuming we wanted to use normal output lamps and not the high output type. Sorry......I had F-48 on the brain today. An F-48 is a single end pin lamp..... just like the 8' tubes. It's a higher output than a F-40 which is a dual pin lamp. I just changed a bunch of F-48's today. Try like 15.00 a tube Sgull, when I followed your link I was on a page that had links to a lot of different ballasts. This was the first one I saw in that list that's designed to power 3 lamps - 3 T-8 lamps, that is. Is this the one you had in mind? PHILIPS ADVANCE Electronic Ballast, T8 Lamps, 120/277V I just changed a bunch of F-48's today. Try like 15.00 a tube Gotta love F-48s - when I'm on the supply end! Nashkat, Yeah I didn't realize my link was gonna show the whole page of different ballasts. Not sure which one I was looking at but I don't think it was the one shown in your link. Mine wasn't quite so expensive, but the one I was looking at was for 3 T8 lamps, normal output. Seems to me a feasible endeavor to go ahead and convert the 2-ballast T12 to a 1-ballast T8. I was considering this one GE LIGHTING Electronic Ballast, T8 Lamps, 120V - Electronic Ballasts - 1PCW1|GE-332-120-N - Grainger Industrial Supply If that'll work for you, go for it. The way I buy stuff like this is to pull one of the old ones, drive over to the supply house, and throw it on the counter. I tell them, This is what I have in the ceiling now, and what I want to have is... What do you have that will get me there? I go to three or four supply houses before I go to Grainger, BTW. It pretty much has to only be available at Grainger for me to buy something there. I can have materials drop-shipped overnight to my job site from any of my regular supply houses and save money over buying it across the counter at Grainger. Nashkat, in my particular location which is a relatively remote small community in SE Alaska, there really are no supply houses to drive over to and throw it on the counter. There's a hardware store with limited selection of such items as ballasts and not much variety kept on stock, so something like this is almost always a special order through them (and if I'm lucky the clerk might even know what a ballast is) or typically I'll need to acquire via suppliers such as Grainger. If I can get it cheaper than Grainger elsewhere (which is frequently the case) of course I go that route. The ballast example I posted from Grainger was just for quick example, checking with the forum here if that particular style/type would probably be a decent choice for the conversion I'm considering. But yeah I guess one like this should work for me then, so I'll go for it. Thanks. Nashkat, in my particular location which is a relatively remote small community in SE Alaska, there really are no supply houses to drive over to and throw it on the counter. There's a hardware store with limited selection of such items as ballasts and not much variety kept on stock, so something like this is almost always a special order through them (and if I'm lucky the clerk might even know what a ballast is) or typically I'll need to acquire via suppliers such as Grainger. Well, yes, that is a different situation. I would try entering the specs for something I liked in a search string and seeing what hits I got, but I imagine you're already doing that. Thanks to all who posted. All the information was very helpful to me. I'll get some of the appropriate T8 ballasts coming and do some conversion. Will keep ya posted. Take a look at McMaster-Carr. We are doing a large ballast changeout in stages they have everything at good prices. With that said, please know I have no connection to them. I just like their variety and prices Andy Sgull - That ones you posted from Grainger should work fine but still seam a little pricy to me. You should be able to get them for less than $25 each. Here is one I found by just searching on google: IOPA-3P32-LW-SC - Philips 3 lamp 120-277v T8 Fluorescent Ballast for $20.54 Yeah Grainger is always pricey for everything. My workplace happens to have an account with them so I just found some to show as an example of the size/type ballast I was considering, for the sake of checking opinion of forum here whether those type should work fine. Definitely on a larger scale ballast change-out I'd be looking at some of the other suppliers such as just mentioned. Thanks! If you (your workplace) has an account with them, there is usually a discount as well, so that may change things a bit. Good Luck!
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I've been having a persistent problem that is driving me crazy and I hope someone here could possibly help. I have a 9 zone sprinkler system run automatically via a timer in my garage. I am having an issue with one of the zones. When the sprinkler is activated automatically, it can take up to 5 minutes (for this problem zone) for the sprinklers to actually start coming up from the ground. Once they start to come up, it can another minute or two for them to get enough pressure to come up fully. All other sprinkler zones come up immediately and fully when it is there turn. If instead of using the automatic method I engage the valve manually by using the bypass screw, the sprinklers will come up immediately and fully. This may lead one to believe the issue is with the solenoid, however, it is not. The reason I say this is as follows: 1. I had replaced the solenoid with a new one. 2. I took the solenoid system from a different working zone and put it on the zone that didn't work. I also took the solenoid system from the non-working zone and put it on a zone that had worked. The result was the same where the zone that I've had problems with continued to have the same problems and the zone that worked before continued to work normally with the other solenoid system. 3. I removed the solenoid from the non-working zone and then turned on the water. This has the effect of basically starting that zone just like the automated system would. That is, without the solenoid piece that goes up and down it is just like it is in the retracted position when the automated system controls it. I still had the exact same problem as when the automated system was fully engaged. So from the above three tests I think it is apparent that the solenoid is not the issue here. Lastly, I removed the top of the valve to check for damage or debris. It is perfectly clean. There is not a screen there but there is a rubber gasket. I cleaned everything (even if it already was clean) and I checked that there was nothing blocking the small hole where the solenoid is. None of this helped. I am confused because if the issue was the valve I would assume I would also have this problem with the manual release screw and as mentioned above, I do not. Given that I have also ruled out the solenoid as well leaves me really scratching my head. Please help! Many thanks. that rubber gasket you mentioned is often called a diaphragm. I probably spelled that wrong. Anyhow, they can become stiff over time and not allow the water to open fully or get past them. This is the part you need to replace. However, nobody really sells them alone so you will probably have to replace the whole valve or at least buy one. What brand of valve is this? And, is it composed of plastic or metal? I dont mean the screws, i mean the whole body. Sounds like this comes from a pressurized water source such as city water. Since the solenoid works fine on other valves you can re-use it, or keep it for a spare in case one fails... which eventually,they all do. If you partially unscrew the solenoid does the water/zone open up fully and pretty much immediately every time? You may have to 1/2 spin it off to see. You do this the same was as you open that bleeder screw you mentioned. If you can take a picture of the valve that would help to let you know where you can find a replacement or replacement parts. Hundreds of models out there. Thanks very much for your reply, Captain! You are correct that it is the diaphragm. I had a brain lock on the name of that part. I can tell you that when I took this rubber diaphragm out, it was still very pliable. Now I have no idea what it is supposed to feel like, but it certainly wasn't what I would call stiff. Also, doesn't the manual bleeder screw have to use this same mechanism? If the diaphragm is the issue shouldn't I have the same issue with the manual method? Not saying you aren't right, but just trying to understand this. The valve looks to be made by a company called Superior. I have some pics below. As you can see from the pics it is metal. I did not take pics of the inside of the valve but can if you think that will help. Essentially inside there is a little metal tube coming up from the center. Sitting on it is a metal washer. On top of that washer is the rubber diaphragm and on top of the diagram is another washer and a nut to hold it all down. Yes it is coming from a city water source. Yup, I've already had to replace other solenoids. If I unscrew the solenoid a bit water will start to come out around the solenoid. I haven't tried it, but I am sure this will work as you suggest. However, I cannot leave it like that lest I have a consistent water leak as a result. This is also why I cannot leave the bleeder screw open partially. It is only at the point that water starts to come out of the bleeder screw or the solenoid that the system works. I should also add that I have now noticed that the valve itself is making a lot of loud noises including knocking sounds. The sprinklers of that zone will start pulsating as well. It is clear that the pressure on that zone is inconsistent. Of course this all stops the second I open the bleeder screw when, as described before, everything works perfectly. Lastly, if I do need to replace the valve itself for any reason, I am not sure do this. From the pics you can see how they attach and obviously it doesn't screw in since there are two attachments that can turn together. How do I get this off and what would I need to put a new one on? Hopefully it doesn't come to that and I suppose if it is the diaphragm and I have to buy a whole new expensive valve, I can just replace the diaphragm with the one from the new valve. However, if the issue requires a new valve be put in, I'd like to understand this better. Here are the pics and I GREATLY appreciate the help! Edit: something quick you can try is to unscrew that handle shaped like an X a few turns or all the way open. Then try this again and see if it opens better for you. This is your flow-control and its the equivalent of turning your shower open fully, closed or anywhere in between. Opening and closing it all the way can sometimes fix something that is sticking such as is your case. If this doesnt work, then keep going on in my post... Some of what I said earlier does not apply because of the type of valve you have. And those are made of brass in case you are into recycling. And actually, the pics are of great help and they offer one more insight as to what I think is wrong. What you have are called atmospheric valves. Most city and state ordinances have made these illegal and require you to have a vacuum breaker or backflow prevention device (two names--same thing) installed instead. Now that I have covered my legal bottom.... There is most likely something wrong with the outlet chamber on these and not just the diaphragm. This is not something that modern valves have. Replacing the diaphragm won't fix that--only replacing the entire valve will. Because of that, your questions made sense. I was thinking of a traditional valve in which reacts differently. You can replace this with a like-kind valve. Rainbird still makes a valve of this kind as do other manufacturers. Not all of the box stores carry them, but many do. This would be your least expensive way to do the repair but may not be legal where you live. The store won't know if that's true or not, believe me. To replace it you will need a bottom feeding valve to make this easiest. Get a replacement valve of the same size that has a threaded female opening on the bottom. You will need 2 MA's (male adaptors) of the same size pipe (looks like 3/4). A small chunk of 3/4 pvc and at least one 3/4 coupling. I suggest you get a few extra parts in case something breaks when you do this. PVC is not made for direct sunlight and it gets brittle over time. You will also need a couple of grease nuts or grease packs for the wires. Put teflon tape (not pipe dope!!) onto the male adaptors and screw them in by hand into your new valve. Then tighten them with a wrench or channel locks, etc. With the water off, cut the pipe as closely to the old MAs as possible and as straight as possible. Let everything dry overnight and test by turning on the water SLOWLY. Then, if it holds you can connect your wires. Glue it back together as best you can, and hopefully the replacement valve matches the size/distance of the old stuff, or things will get a bit tricky on you. I suggest total valve replacement and keep your old solenoid in case one of your other valves ever goes bad. The one that is having trouble turning on will eventually fail and either not open at all or never close. Thanks again Captain for all of your fantastic help. I stopped at at Lowes today and discovered they have a brass valve just like mine, however, made by Orbit. The guy at Lowes advised me to cut my old one out and bring it in so they can match up what I need. I cut it off this evening and will bring it to them tomorrow. Not the straightest cut in the word, but hopefully it is still okay. I'll pick up the stuff tomorrow and hope that does it. Thanks again for your time and thorough responses! P.S. I played with the handle many times before and it does not solve the issue unfortunately. The reason you want a straight cut is so that you can get as much of that pipe into the fitting as possible for the glue to take hold. Buy extra parts--you can always return them. Dont forget teflon tape, pvc primer and pvc glue. before you glue this all together, flush out that pipe to keep any debris (pvc shavings) from going into your valve once you turn the water back on. the primer and glue come with instructions on them, and the only problem you could face would be that the valves are slightly longer or shorter than one another... since your pipes going in and out are parallel. good luck. Captain, One question I have is the height of the valve relative to the other valves. Having to cut off the old valve off means that there is less PVC to mount to. In this case the new valve would then be sitting slightly lower to the ground than the other valves. Is this just an aesthetic issue or is there a plumbing/pressure type problem I will experience as a result? The PVC of the old valve is sticking 4 out of the ground as it stands now. The distance from the ground to the other valves is 5.5. I need to take into account the size of the coupling I will have to use, but I probably lost about 1/2 or so from cutting. Also after cutting the PVC yesterday I saw some debris from that exercise in the pipe so I flushed it then. I put some rag in both pipes to keep everything out of them until I need to connect the new valve. I didn't realize until I got the new valve home that the valve actually comes apart. Given that I wonder if I could have just unscrewed and replaced the valve without having had to cut the pipe, etc. Granted with the old valve off I cannot get the thing to budge so perhaps it would have been too stuck on there, but knowing this I probably would have tried. I've got everything though and I am about to give it a whirl. replacing it without swapping parts was a good idea. there are a few reasons those valves were higher up in the air. 1. makes them easier to see/work with. 2. since they are acting as your backflow, they are supposed to be a minimum of 12 above the highest head in the yard. I would guess that they were either installed by a homeowner, or a less professional company. But since the city has not yelled at you for them yet, if you have to lower it, go ahead so long as you have room to work with. If these things are an eyesore, look into a plastic rock at a local garden center. They are lightweight and can cover these without hurting anything in the ground. Glad to hear its all working out well. Thanks, Captain. In looking at the entire valve, the portion that actually connects to the two pipes coming from the ground is basic and doesn't have any parts. The other two portions of the valve screw out. This is why I think I could have replaced them (assuming I could strong arm the old valve open). I could be wrong though as obviously I am no one's idea of a plumber. I am quite sure it was done by a contractor when the house was built in 2002. My neighbors have similar setups. It is not an eyesore as they are pretty well hidden in the back corner of the yard behind some trees. Unless you are looking, you don't know they are there. I was just wondering about the height to be sure a plumbing issue wouldn't occur by one valve being slightly lower than the others. Having first done a dry fit I can see that the difference is negligible so I am not worried and this new valve looks the same (although newer) as the others so from a looks department we're good. I have since connected the new valve. Actually I connected the lower portion and will screw on the upper portions in a bit. I may have been a bit messy with the primer and glue, but it seems to be okay and again it is well hidden anyway. My white pipe is a bit more purple now (that primer really runs!) It has been drying and I'll let it do that until tomorrow. The bottle says to wait an hour and then you can test to 75psi, however, I have no idea what pressure the water is at so I figure I should play it safe and just wait the full 24 hours. I'll post again the outcome which I hope doesn't require me to ask more questions! when you turn on the water, fill it slowly. Open the water part-way in the basement or wherever it is. Wait for the water to stop filling 1-4 minutes. Then, open it full if it stops. If it doesnt, you have a leak somewhere. Dont worry about the purple, it wont hurt anything but it wont get you into the museum of art, either. In a neighborhood where that kind of thing is common its usually one neighbor who does it himself (or the contractor) and then helps others do it... or they all hire the same irrigation guy who doesnt know the local laws/codes or doesnt care. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it but I just wanted to make you aware. After this holds water, connect your wires then and protect them from water with grease nuts, or grease packs. Grease nuts have this disgusting white grease inside of them. Grease packs are what you shove the wire nuts into and they have a disgusting clear silicone in them. Either way, dont wear your best clothes when you put them on the wires. Taking apart valves is seemingly harmless and typically causes no problems. However, older valves, just touching them seems to make them break for some reason. So dont take them apart unless you have to. Good luck. Kirk I realized I never answered your hammering question. That can be fixed sometimes with a hammer arrester installed on the water line feeding the irrigation system. You will need a plumber or some handy plumbing skills to install one and its been my experience that they have a 50/50 chance of stopping that slamming sound. You probably have over 40 psi if you are hammering. My water sits at a static 80 psi, which is unusually high. However, I never have problems running the sprinklers and taking the shower, either. Its has its advantages. Captain, I tested the system today and I have a lot of good news, but one piece that isn't so good. First, the pipes are solid and withstood the pressure without any leaking. The second piece of good news is that the zone now works correctly in that it comes up immediately and fully. However, there is one piece of bad news. There appears to be a slow dripping leak from one of the couplers that screws into the valve. To answer the next question, yes I did use thread tape. The nightmare here is that there is no way for me to unscrew this without again cutting the pipe which we established earlier wasn't exactly sticking far out of the ground. I would be okay with this slow drip if it only occurred when the valve was on and watering, however, it occurs as long as the main water is on so in other words, 24X7. I just cannot believe after all of this and me worrying about the actual pipes that something this stupid and what would be easy to fix if I could unscrew it, has potentially undone the work. Is there any other way for me to fix this issue without having to cut the valve off again? Also, there is no way to test this even the next time since I cannot put it under pressure until the whole thing is glued down. Any suggestions appreciated. Also with regards to the hammering. I mentioned that only in context with the problems I had with this valve. The hammering is not a normal occurrence for my setup. Once I replaced the valve with this new one, the hammering went away. Looks like I may have solved the problem. I went to Home Depot and found some plumbers epoxy putty. I applied this around the coupler and valve area where the slow drip is. Stuff dries in 15 minutes. Turn the water back on and no more drip. I waited quite a while and still no drip. I'm going to keep the water on all night so tomorrow if I still see nothing I will be confident that it is resolved. My lesson learned with this issue is that I probably didn't apply enough tape to the threads although the other threaded coupler has no leaks. Otherwise that epoxy stuff is pretty neat and handy to have around. Thanks again Captain for all of your patient assistance. My lawn thanks you as well! I wrap teflon around about 6 times, others do it 10-15 times. You could, in the future, fix this with 1 coupler. There is probably enough bend that you could cut the pipe on one, or even both sides, and re-tighten that down if you need. If its on the feed (or below) the valve, then yeah, you are going to have to fix it for sure. If its on the outgoing side, you can probably live with it. Not sure how long that putty will hold, but If it does not you can try JB weld. It will bond to both the metal and the plastic if you follow the instructions carefully. I use rubber gloves whenever I use it. My personal feeling, though, is never to rig something up like that but to replace any failed portion or repair it properly, but I can understand where you are coming from. If it fails, scrape that off with paper towels or rags and try JB weld. Glad to see it worked out for ya. The putty didn't hold as I found it moist when I checked early today. I can see that small drops are continuing. I had no choice but to do the unthinkable which was to cut it off again. I see this as a last chance as I don't think I'd want to get any closer to the ground with what pipe is there. I applied copious amounts of thread tape and then I got myself a larger wrench so I could really tighten the coupler fully to the valve. It would be unbelievable if it leaked now. My concern once again is for the pipe itself. This turned out to be no issue the last time as it held perfectly, but this time the pipe was not in as good of shape as before. This is due to my armature gluing efforts. I think it should be on there secure, but we'll see tomorrow after it has its full 24 hours to dry. This is my last shot before I'd have to call a pro in. I would assume they would have to lengthen the pipe if it were to be cut again. Hopefully I won't have to find out. We'll see tomorrow.... Twice seems to be a charm. Turned on the main water today and the setup seems water tight. No leaks or slow drips that I could find. Sprinkler zone worked perfectly as well. I'll need to give it the 24 hour test to make sure I don't have any super slow leaks, but for now it is bone dry and looking good. Beer 4U2 Congratulations. A pro would have done the same thing you just did, except they should have highly suggested you install a backflow prevention device. Next time you do this try to wipe up extra glue as it will eat through the PVC over time. It takes years so don't worry about it. Captain, The valve I have on there says it is an Anti-Siphon Valve to prevent contaminants from entering the household water supply. Is this the same thing as you are referring to below as backflow prevention? Also, I don't see any extra glue (the blue stuff). I do see the primer which had dripped down the length of the PVC making it look purple. I tried wiping it when it happened, however, it immediately stained it and there was no way to remove it. Perhaps some solvent can, but I don't know. what you did is just fine. Those are supposedly backflow preventing valves. Most building codes do not count them as a backflow prevention device such as the Febco Vacuum Breaker or other models. Your glue will be fine and its all dried now. No worries.
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I have an older Aprilaire 445 (maybe 15 yrs) that I haven't used in years. I just turned it off a few years ago when it started leaking. I think it was a bad float. It's the model that has a pump in it to keep the water flowing over the media and therefore does not require a drain. It's a bypass type and is mounted above the furnace to the supply plenum. Well, the family is now complaining that it gets too dry in the house, so I need to either fix it or get something new. House is about 2,500 sq ft, well insulated, and we are in PA. Gas furnace is maybe 7 yrs old. I've read through some posts on here and have a few questions: 1. Is it OK to mount the newer models on the supply plenum? 2. I don't have a basement drain but do have a condensation pump. Is this pump sufficient enough to use a flow-through humidifier? 3. I have a humidistat in the dining room that controls(controlled) the 445. If I get a new model with a humidistat, can I use the same wiring? 4. The current opening in the plenum is approx 13.5W x 11H. Most new models require a smaller opening. Any easy way to reduce this? 5. Is there a brand/model that would be the easiest replacment? 6. Or should I just throw new parts at the old 445 and live with it? Thanks guys. [QUOTE=PaJohn;1293685] 1. Is it OK to mount the newer models on the supply plenum? Yes you can, if the holes don't match with the new one, I would just patch the hole, use that patch for the bypass duct. 2. I don't have a basement drain but do have a condensation pump. Is this pump sufficient enough to use a flow-through humidifier? Yes, the pump will keep up just fine. 3. I have a humidistat in the dining room that controls(controlled) the 445. If I get a new model with a humidistat, can I use the same wiring? Yes, you can. 4. The current opening in the plenum is approx 13.5W x 11H. Most new models require a smaller opening. Any easy way to reduce this? You can patch it as I said earlier. 5. Is there a brand/model that would be the easiest replacment? They are all the same to me in my book, I think Honeywell will be easier to find since they are sold at Home Depot, or other stores. 6. Or should I just throw new parts at the old 445 and live with it? Can you get parts still?? Do you know what was or where it was leaking? I also have a 445 (no floor drain either. A few years ago, I got some parts/filters from : http://www.aprilaire.com/
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I have a 26' above ground pool. We've used Baquacil for the last few years, but last year we had every type of algae, fungus, and water mold that exists (and maybe some previous undiscovered types as well). It seems that our only other options are chlorine or salt water. I've read that salt water is better than chlorine. What's the best method for converting to a salt water system? Is it really that much better (less maintenance and cost) than Baquacil and/or chlorine? Does the water still need to be tested by the pool place every month, does it require shocking, etc. Any information is appreciated. We have a sand filter if it makes a difference. Thanks! salt pools are nice, they make chlorine but you still to keep on top of your chemicals. Filtration- a lot of my customers complain about green stuff, lots of times is because there are not running the filter pump long enough. you want to turn that whole body of water every day, poor filtration and circulation can cause huge algae problems We purchased the Intex saltwater chlorine generator at the beginning of last summer (June 20th'ish) to replace the disgusting and inefficient self-dissolving chlorine tablets we had been using in our 16' Intex pool. They never dissolved fast enough and we were constantly battling algae problems. We had friends who had installed a similar generator on their inground pool and LOVED it. After ALSO upgrading to a more powerful filter pump, we are also in love with our saltwater generator. In the beginning, there was a little bit of a learning curve - setting the time of day you want it to run (since it puts itself on a 24-hour timer once you set it up) and to have it run at the same time as the pump is on was tricky, but I bought an outdoor timer from my local hardware store for the PUMP, so I don't have to worry about it at all now (unless there's a power outage). In one of the reviews I read before purchasing mine, the gentleman said you need to give the salt a full day to dissolve in the pool with the pump running before starting the saltwater generator, and he was right. As long as you follow the instructions that come with the unit and add the amount of salt necessary for your size pool (for our 16' X 48 circular pool, we needed 125 lbs.), you should be OK. I would recommend this unit to anyone with a small to medium-sized above-ground pool. A larger pool would probably require a more powerful unit. It feels so theraputic swimming in the saline-like water...absolutely wonderful! Our eyes don't burn, our swimsuits aren't fading from the usual chemicals that would be affecting them, and our hair even feels softer (believe it or not!). I will never go back to chlorine tablets again. A FANTASTIC invention!! I hope that helps with your decision.
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Hi guys ( and gals, gotta be PC!) I am in the lower NYS area and am resurfacing my 20 year old ( at least!) 600 sq ft outdoor concrete patio that has a little wear and tear on it, mostly from fertilizers from the container gardening that I do. I know Quikrete has a Concrete resurfacer that runs about 24 dollars a bag at Lowes but I have also started to look at Ardex resurfacer. Has anyone used the Ardex and how does it stack up to the Quikrete? I have priced it at a local builder supply and he quotes a price of $50 dollars a bag and all he says is that it is expensive and good, not a real hard seller here, but twice the cost of Q!? My heart almost stopped at that cost and wanted to break out laughing!! If I am to spend twice the cost I want to make sure it is a darn good product!!! I hate to pay the double price for a compariable product. Any idea what this goes for in lower NYS? I think this guy was jerking my chain after checking his computer and then a calculator to come up with a price. Any feedback appreciated. Concrete Resurfacer is a sand-cement mix with an integral acrylic additive. I sell Concrete Resurfacer for about 12 bucks a bag, and can make it from scratch for about 7 bucks a bag, and have a better product to boot. Buy Sand Mix, and 1 bag of portland cement for each 10 bags of Sand Mix. Buy 1 gallon of Mortar additive (acrylic, not latex) per 10 bags of sand mix. Mix in proportion and resurface your patio. TScarbough; Thanks for the comeback. 12 Bucks!? Boy they sure do rip off up here! LOL!!. Even though they are probably all the same is there any particular brand of acrylic glue that you recommend? Acryl 60 is a commercial one, probably available through Sherwin-Williams. As Tscarborough said, you can make a serviceable overlay of your own. However, store-bought or homemade, it's no good if you don't do the proper prep work. To get a good bond, make sure you acid etch the surface, neutralize it, then clean and rinse it thoroughly. This will give you the proper profile for bonding. Also, if you're only resurfacing in order to cover cracks, don't bother. The cracks will transfer back through the overlay in little or no time. You can fix pitting and scaling with an overlay, but not cracks. Pecos Pecos; That's a given, I have already power washed and scrubed the patio with bleach and concrete washer to get rid of all algae and stains. The few cracks I realize will show. Only way for that is pavers or uniblocks, but that is for another time. Right now I am concentrating on the pitting, etc. from the fertilizer runoff from the container garden. Where there were no pots no problem! Thanks for the reminder anyway.
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Do I really need to remove the battery in order to access the driver's side headlight ?! What does the owners manual say? Have you tried to replace bulb without removing battery? Originally Posted by HotinOKC What does the owners manual say? Have you tried to replace bulb without removing battery? No, because I can't get to it. The manual is not very clear, talks about reaching from outside but I don't see any pins that are mentioned in the manual. ... and generally the bulb and its electrical connections fit into the headlight housing from the engine side. Changing the bulb is a matter of twisting the socket to remove it. Unless I've got it totally wrong: did you mean this? http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you...onda_Accord_Lx I did much research online but found no detailed instructions to replace my 2005 Accord driver side head light/lamp. It looks hard to get to the light. However, it's not too bad at all if you know how. It took me about 30 minutes this morning. Follow the following link Picasa Web Albums - HD - Step-by-step ... to instructional pictures that I documented while I replacing mine. Follow the same procedure to replace the passenger side, except you do not have to remove the battery. This procedure works for Honda Accord 03 to 06 and maybe later. Good luck!
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My house has asbestos shingles on 3 sides. I am getting estimates for vinyl siding, some new windows (Andersen tilt-wash, not replacement windows) perhaps new roof, some other things. I am trying to get something definitive about whether it's better to side over the asbestos shingle on the 3 sides and the wood shake in the front and on the garage, or if it should be removed. Most contractors don't want to remove it, but I have one who will. My question is whether it's worth removing it, and also if siding over it presents disclosure issues upon sale of the house. My understanding is that this kind of shingle, which was used a lot in the 1940's and 1950's (my house was built circa 1952), is not a high-risk kind of asbestos, since it's mostly cement with the asbestos fibers. My question really has to do a) aesthetics of siding over siding; especially with new windows; and b) what kinds of disclosure issues there might be upon resale. Can anyone help? The state is NJ. I would be inclined to side over the asbestos. It is not a concern if it is not disturbed. Removing it may open up all manner of inspections, licenses, environmental intrusions, governmental meddling, and hidden costs. Someone who is licensed to remove asbestos does not ordinarily do such work cheaply, because of all the regulations imposed upon this endeavor. It may be prudent to check local laws. I'm just concerned about potential buyers (not that I'm planning to sell in the near future) freaking out about it. It looks pretty clear that you have to disclose this on sale. I contacted my local building department, and the laws are weird -- you can take it down yourself as a homeowner, but a contractor should be licensed for asbestos abatement (which none are). I don't really care one way or the other (especially if foam board on top of the siding will also provide more insulation), but I just don't want to end up with an unsaleable house 30 years down the line. My next door neighbor may be a problem too. He's already cut branches on one of my trees back to the trunk because they are right over his daughter's room -- I can imagine the stink he'll kick up if we start ripping off asbestos shingles. If you take this down yourself, where will you dispose of it? Find that out before you plan to remove it yourself. Your local landfill may charge a princely sum to take it, if at all. It may have to be shipped in a sealed truck to a hazardous waste disposal facility many miles away. There is a lot of passion and very little science supporting all the concern for asbestos and its potential for being a hazard. Nevertheless, there are many laws, restrictions, licenses, fees, and other such abounding. Who knows what may happen in 30 years. It may be that there is some restriction on the old glass in windows in a house because not all of it is tempered. Your neighbor can cut the limbs back to the property line, but no further. Being a homeowner, i would remove the shingles myself. The reason i would remove them is when you're nailing siding over them, they begin to crack and some fall apart and slide behind the wall and end up settling at the bottom of the wall. If you remove them, you can check the walls themselves for any damage from water and/or bugs over the 50 yrs the house has been standing. As for disposal?, i would just get a dumpster and dispose of them there. It can be very expensive to properly remove and dispose of asbestos siding. I've seen a lot of people cover it up, but I've never seen anyone actually have them removed. It is perfectly acceptable to encapsulate it behind new siding, and it should not affect the value or sale of your home. Just disclose it if you ever sell. As long as the asbestos shingle siding is not friable (powdery) where the dust could be enhaled, it is perfectly safe. Although you can't get asbestos shingle siding anymore, you can get siding shingles that look exactly like them made out of cement fiber (same stuff as Hardi-Plank) for repairs and replacements. I would cover it up with new siding or just replace those that need it with the cement fiber shingles. Good Luck! Mike After speaking with the town building inspectors and several contractors, the job now involves siding over the asbestos shingle. The wood shakes in the front of the house and on the garage will come off. Our home has asbestos siding as described in the earlier emails - asbestos with cement - where can we buy replacements? We have about 20 shingles that are cracked need to be replaced. Thanks very much for your assistance. happysandy, It is unlikely that you will find asbestos or asbestos products for sale. I want to cover the asbestos with cultured(veneer) stone. I will have to attach the ties somehow, but drilling could cause the asbestos to get into the air. Any suggestions? Is this even possible? Cover the siding with polystyrene-foam insulation panels. Make sure screws penetrate at least 3/4 inch into the wall studs. Hang the new vinyl siding using 2-in.-long nails. If you are drilling, hammering or breaking any tiles, use a respirator. Asbestos removal must be done by a certified contractor (look under Asbestos in the yellow pages). Improper removal is illegal and increases the health risks to you and your family. I was wondering if anyone would know if it is safer to paint over asbestos siding rather than to put vinyl siding over it? I am looking into purchasing a home that has asbestos siding (previous owners had to disclose this on the home disclosure by law), but the only thing holding me back is the dangerous asbestos siding. The siding is breaking apart in some areas. I have been told it is easier to paint over it rather than to have it vinyl sided. Is this true? And how safe would it be? Any responses would be greatly appreciated. If the siding is breaking apart in places, you will probably want to replace the broken panels. I think Hardiplank makes something similar, at least that's what I'm told. If it's in good shape, I do think you can paint it, but you can't powerwash it beforehand or anything like that. My good news is that I have FINALLY hired the guy who did my windows 3 years ago to do the roof, siding, and windows. He is hiring an asbestos abatement contractor to remove the old siding. This involves a radical cash-ectomy to the tune of some $4400. Ouch.
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I am going to replace my hot water heater in the next week with a larger one. However, the new one I am going to install is a POWER VENT model. I am aware of the possible problems that I can have with this such as if the electricity goes out. What I am asking is, does anyone have one of these and what types of problems have you encountered? My FIRST question would be-----------WHY? Why even go that route? More stuff to fail. More complex and expensive to repair and/or service, etc...... Unless there is a specific reason you are going to that type of a unit, I like keeping things simple. Also, I guess your area is prone to power outages? You seem a bit concerned in case you lose electric service. Knowing this in advance would deter me from buying this type of HWH. I personally have not serviced (nor own) a power vented HWH (only a boiler or furnace) but can tell you that unless you really need a power vented unit, try to stay away from them. The problems I have encountered with power vents outweigh any benefits that I can see. Like I said, I like keeping things SIMPLE. If you like working under the hood of today's cars versus old school cars with points, rotor, condensor, distributor cap, etc./... I'm sure that you will love a power vent unit. (hehehehe) Maybe someone out there can offer a different view. How about it guys? Anybody PREFER a power vented unit? Good luck Charlie It's certainly true that there is more stuff to go wrong, and it's harder for anyone other than an HVAC tech trouble-shoot problems. I just had a American Standard Freedom 90 furnace go down at one of my rentals and the tech went right - as in, within 90 seconds - to the problem (binding inducer fan), it might have taken me a while to track that one down. That said I encounter two situations were power vented water heaters make sense. 1) It's desirable to sidewall vent the appliance. 2) It's desirable to use a CAT IV appliance because it allows installation in closed utility room without combustion air concerns. Also, in some of the municipalities where I do home inspections here in the Chicago area the building departments are encouraging the installation of direct vent appliances (especially furnaces) in replacements where the existing appliance is drawing combustion air from an unconfined space within the structure because they feels it's safer - they don't require it, but they will tell contractors and homeowners they prefer it. I was comparing apples to apples. Then I was thrown an orange! I was assuming the application allowed a CHOICE of either design, and YOUR main concern was an electrical outage. You made no mention of these other concerns and desires (utility room installation, limited combustion air, desired side wall venting). Also you stated that you were going to replace YOUR unit, not one many miles away in a rental. If you are replacing a unit in a rental apartment then go with the vented design if you want. You will most likely call a tech on those units anyway, I presume. You are going to pay more for the unit initially so I assume that the cost to purchase and service the equipment is not the major issue. Application is the main concern, not a power failure as initially stated. Right? As far as YOUR house or unit, since YOU sound like a handy guy (and you have this forum to guide you too!) I suggest a simpler unit to work on so that YOU can fix it instead of the tech. In a HWH I don't believe that there would be substantial short term savings in fuel. If I had that information from the getgo, perhaps I would have responded this way initially. That is why sometimes we like to SEE the installation and make recommendations based on what we hear and see. Maybe others have contrasting input? How 'bout it fellas???? Good luck, Charlie Sorry about the last post, I thought you were the same guy that made the initial thread. That's what happens keeping these late hours. However, my opinion stands: Unless the application is best suited for a power vented WH, go conventional. Charlie Went ahead with the installation. Here was the scenario. My Brick chimney that goes from the basement, through the first floor (hidden), and through the second floor (exposed) is leaking at the flashing. Since the chimney is only being used to vent my gas hot water heater, I looked into the powervent which would allow me to vent directly out the side of the house. Plus, I can now take out my chimney to the floor of my second level and greatly open up the room in which it was located. Went ahead and did it this weekend. Had to sweat all new pipes for the new location with acetylene and solder, (copper has gotten expensive). Installed elbows, T's, valves, etc. Had to move gas lines to the new location. Had to run electrical from the circuit breaker to the new location. Had to drill a hole through my exterior wall for the new vent pipe, seal and caulk the hole. All told, took better part of both days, with myself, my father, and brother. Having a plumber come and do the work would have been easy. The hard part was the three of us putting out ideas for each little part of the job (I would do this, I wouldn't do that). All done though New, Sears Kenmore 50 gal. Powervent water heater: $700 Parts to install new heater: $450 Labor saved by not using a plumbing service: Est. $500 or $600 Spending 19 hours with my dad and brother in my basement: Priceless I guess. If anyone has any questions about what to do with one of these installations, let me know. Originally Posted by LinwoodNJ . Plus, I can now take out my chimney to the floor of my second level and greatly open up the room in which it was located. Being able to better enjoy the added space is the 'Priceless' part. BTW: Doesn't this sound like a commercial on TV or something? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- BTW: The price of copper has about doubled within the past 2 years or so. The price does fluctuate a bit, up and down, but I am still sorry that I returned so much copper that I wasn't using for a refund just BEFORE it went up! Charlie I regularly remove chimneys and sidewall vent gas appliances at my rental rehabs for exactly the reasons you have mentioned - a major source of roof leaks is eliminated, I no longer have to worry about maintaining the masonry, and I pick up rentable floor space. It is true, tough, that CAT IV appliances are more expensive and require more service, at one project done in 2005 I have five CAT IV furnaces, THREE have required service this winter (two pressure sensors and a binding inducer fan). OTOH, the 5 Takagi tankless water heaters - more complicated devices - are so far working perfectly. I wonder where I can buy Japanese furnaces. I have so far installed some higher BTU (commercial--Laundromat) wall hung Peerless and they were only about $1,000.00 each (delivered) and 200KBTU+ each, and was able to hook 2 up together with their kit (about $75). I was wondering about the Tagkagi ones, even though they are more money and less BTUs. They are available on the internet but I can't remember on which site I saw them. You can let us know which ones you like and the advantages/disadvantages you find using them. Just don't make it sound like a commercial (hehehehe). SPECIAL vent kits are sold separately for these units by Peerless, but I do not know about other brands. We service guys rather know AHEAD of time if there is a particular benefit that any one of these units may have, or a particular problem too! The DISADVANTAGE I found with the Peerless wall-hung 200KBTU units was that you can only put 2 together with the kit. If you needed to put 3 or more together, which I would have done 3-4 on this installation, you needed to buy an expensive 'controller' which costs as much or more than one of the units. The customer wanted to 'try' it that way first, then if it was not enough, separate half of the plumbing and install another two units. Good idea from a customer! Laundromats have easily accessable plumbing so it would by child's play to re-plumb half the store! ONLY the hot would have required it. Ended up it is working fine right now with about 10 washers ever being used at one time. He actually has 20 washers but not as many customers-----yet. The water is not exactly HOT-HOT when all machines are being used together but better than just warm. I do not know if this is 'customary' with these type of units or not. I do know that the 'link kit' had something to do with 'sharing' one 'brain' and turning both units on at the same time. There was no 'link kit' for linking 3-5 units together but they did offer a 'controller that had 'cute lights' on it and every unit would plug into it via harness. I guess you haven't had the pleasure of doing a commercial job yet requiring 500KBTUs or more. Let us know. Charlie (old dog in a new kennel society) Hello There! I am a newbie here, so I hope that I am posting this right!. Who I am: A Real Estate Agent The Problem: The inspector said that while he was inspecting the Brick Chimney that the bricks on the chimney int he attic are deteriorated and thyere are holes to the flue. As a result this condition may allow carbon monozide to enter the home. (there are detectors in the home) The onloy appliance using the chimney is the water heater and he recommends a power vent be installed on the water heater and the chimney by abandoned prior to closing. I need to know the solution: Is this the best suggestion and is it necessary? What is the estimated costs of doing such a project? If this should be done...does anyone know a realiable plumber to handle the project? Thank you for your time and I owe you some advice in my field now!!
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